West of SXSW
March 14th, 2008
Just a couple of blocks west of that annual Austin madness called South By Southwest (aka SXSW, or even simply SX), sits a gem of an art museum well worth a visit by visitors and Austinites alike. Yesterday the contemporary Mexican exhibit currently gracing the historic walls at Fifth and Congress had company. And not the kind of company that shuffles quietly around the room, talking in hushed, respectful tones. The tones were amped up for Mexic-Arte’s second annual SXSW Cosmica Artists’ Day Party. Kicking off with the always-on Sarah Sharp, art met artists as the line-up moved briskly on to Patricia Vonne. Just one complaint about the willowy Vonne and her band – why only one flamenco dance from kid sister Elisabeth? Vonne’s official showcase was Thursday night at Bourbon Rocks, while you’ve still got time to catch Sharp’s. She’s at another historic downtown building, Lambert’s barbecue restaurant, tonight.
Another Cultural Icon: Real Madrid Football Club
February 27th, 2008
It was Austin architect Juan Miró that alerted me to the sheer scale of Real Madrid’s operation. One of the, if not the, biggest soccer clubs in the world, Real Madrid was voted club of the century in 2000 by no less a body than FIFA, the International Federation of Football Associations. That’s just one of the handy-dandy facts I picked up on our self-guided 90-minute tour of Estadio Bernabéu, Real Madrid’s 80,000+-seat soccer stadium, which turned out to be just 15 minutes stroll from our suburban hotel.
If you’re not headed to Madrid yourself any time soon, take a virtual tour – it’s uncannily similar to what we experienced (minus the sweet smell of freshly mown grass, though!) Sports fan or not, if you do find yourself connecting via Madrid’s Barajas airport, and with several hours to spare, hop in a cab and take in the home of one of the biggest brands in the world. I jest not: Real Madrid truly is one of the cultural icons of Madrid.
Tips on Tackling all that Culture (Part II)
February 27th, 2008
On our last full day downtown, I went solo at the Reina Sofia, Madrid’s national museum devoted to modern art (and the only one of Madrid’s three major art museums that opens Mondays). I knew this sympathetically transformed old palace deserved a lifetime to explore it fully. I also knew from multiple visits to the Met, that more than a couple of hours of art-viewing leaves me numb. My solution to getting a meaningful visit from a minimal schedule? Focus, focus, focus.
Given the distinct possibility that my next Spanish jaunt will be to Barcelona, I chose to focus on Joan Miró. The Reina Sofia graciously provides no-charge floor plans and exhibit notes indicating exactly which artist and period you are going to see in which room. Ninety minutes later I was high on my Miró fix, and ready to keep on going. So I rode the all-glass elevator that snakes up the outside of the solid outer walls to the fourth floor. Here I randomly chose room 24, and felt like a prisoner at liberty as I focused solely on the four or five late 20th century pieces. Then I brazenly strode through the other rooms, into the special Picasso exhibit, on lone from the Musée National Picasso in Paris, simply to see the magnificence which is Picasso’s Guernica. One last five-minute stop in the courtyard garden, where I came face-to-face with both a towering 1974 Alexander Calder mobile and Miró’s 1963 bronze Pájaro lunar. And that was it — I was headed home.
Did I miss much? Heck, yes. Did I have a wonderfully enriching visit which left me wanting to explore in more detail the history and context of the works that I made a real connection with during my visit? You bet!
Tips on Tackling all that Culture (Part I)
February 27th, 2008
In the Lone Star state we’re fond of saying, “Everything’s bigger in Texas.” Yet, come to an historic capital city like Madrid and you’ll soon realize there are some pretty big things here too.
Yet, don’t get overwhelmed. Whether you’ve got a limited threshold when it comes to sight-seeing, or you’re simply on a tight schedule, here are my handy tips for coming out the other end refreshed, revived and running on time.
On a rainy Sunday afternoon we were pushed for time at the Palacio Real. Normally I would recommend joining a tour, renting an audio guide, and browsing the ubiquitous pamphlets and flyers at the information desk. Yet, buying our tickets shortly before the box office closed at 2:00pm, we had until just 3:00pm to visit the sprawling royal palace. And we did it.
Here’s how you too can become a speed tourist:
- Disregard the detailed guides in the ubiquitous souvenir shop. Focus on soaking in the atmosphere, not every last name, date and other minutia. Read up after you get back to the hotel. That’ll bring what can be dry facts to life. (Confession: In the Palacio Real I did refer to my mini DK guide once or twice. The two-sentence paragraphs were perfect to read on the run.)
- Keep moving if nothing catches your eye. I know, you’ve traveled hundreds of miles, and spent thousands of dollars for this moment. I admit, speed tourism isn’t for everyone.
- Be alert. Coming from the Royal Armory, we managed to head off a security guard at the entrance to the Royal Pharmacy. One stride later and he’d have locked the door in our faces. As it was, we got a hurried but fascinating look at the warren of rooms where herbs, roots and other best-not-mentioned ingredients were bubbled and brewed into potions and salves for their royal Excellencies.
Adjust Your (Stomach) Clocks
February 26th, 2008
That’s right, all you Americans and other early evening diners. Adjust your stomachs, not just your clocks when you arrive in Madrid (or any other Spanish city from what I’m told).
Madrileños (residents of Madrid) eat dinner late – as in 9:30pm and beyond. How do they do it? Well, lunch is often an extended affair. You’ll notice smaller stores close at 2:00pm, reopening at 5 or 5:30pm.
One solution: go native. The smaller tapas bars start to fill-up around 8-ish. There’s a good listing on the somewhat funky City of Madrid website. (Which is actually very informative once you get past all the fancy graphics.)
MAD Hotel Choices
February 26th, 2008
Here in Madrid, we settled on the Hotel Preciados – and couldn’t be happier. It’s stylish, comfortable, five minutes from the Palacio Real (15 to the Prado) and has free wireless in all the bedrooms. In the past we’ve paid up to 30 Euros/day for Internet access in other European hotels so free is a great deal. Room rates here go from 120 Euros. For a tad more we booked a superior room – very cute use of roof space, with sloping vaulted ceilings, hardwood floors, double sink in the bathroom and our own (albeit tiny) patio. A great example of providing 21st century amenities while retaining the charm of a 19th century building.
Clearly there’s a veritable raft of hotels to choose from in this capital city, where every second pedestrian has their nose in a tourist map. An earlier post,Madrid Taster, listed a couple, now let me add to that. First off, two of the very mod Room Mate hotels: Laura, just a block behind the Preciados; and Alicia, right on Plaza de Santa Ana (recommended by Austinite and part-time Madrid resident, Rosa Rivera). Btw, the square’s home to the buzzing Teatro Espanol (A-list spotters take note: Rosa’s run into Pedro Almodovar and Penelope Cruz there). Across the square is the ME, part of the Sol Melia group, and formerly the Gran Hotel Reina Victoria. It looks just gorgeous (although be warned, we did not venture inside). Also of note, GTH (GlobeTrotting Husband) says he’s stayed in a Melia on his Sao Paulo trips.
One last quick word about wireless Internet access: Is it Madrid or the whole of Spain that provides free wireless? I noticed that both the Room Mate hotels offer it. And today, with GTH’s business meeting starting, we’ve transferred out to the boonies and the Hotel Don Pio, where they also provide it. Interesting…
First Time in Madrid: Quick Do’s & Don’ts
February 25th, 2008
Do visit: Madrid’s got the most day-to-night energy of any European city I’ve seen.
Do walk: Yes, there’s a great bus and metro system but why not shake off that transatlantic cramp and get a real sense of street life by striking out on foot? (My favorite tour book series, Eye Witness Travel has a handy lightweight combo guide-map to take with you.)
Don’t panic: When AeroCity didn’t have our any record of our airport shuttle reservation we simply hopped a cab. Turned out the 15 minute ride was cheaper than the van. (30 Euros, including tip. Note that was in light early Saturday traffic.)
In Praise of Podcasts
February 18th, 2008
Anyone else out there not yet caught the latest major Blanton exhibit, Virgin, Saints & Angels: South American Paintings from 1600-1825? (Yes, folks, it’s true confession time!) Whether you’ve hit the halls or not, get a wonderfully detailed round-up of the show on John Aielli’s podcast – an excellent add-on to his KUT morning radio show, Eklektikos.
The Blanton podcast is a 40+-minute interview with two thoughtful women: Ursula Davila-Villa, assistant curator of Latin American art at the Blanton and Susan Deans-Smith, a historian of colonial Latin America in the UT history department.
And while you’re there, poke around in the Aielli Unleashed archives – you’ll find all kind of neat stuff, all available for free download. Recent guests include Austin Symphony Orchestra concertmaster Jessica Mathaes, acclaimed pianist Anton Nel, Austin’s Silver Thistle highland pipes and drums band, and most recently (for me) actors from the Austin Playhouse discussing and performing extracts from their production of Les Liaisons Dangereuses.
(One last tip: I use Juice as my podcast download and management software.)
Madrid Taster!
February 2nd, 2008
It’s Groundhog Day and in the spirit of the Bill Murray movie, time for me to start repeating myself. Which is a convoluted way of saying, ‘I’m back, and renewing my commitment to be a regular and frequent contributor to this call-it-what-you-will online journal.’ Here goes…
It’s finally settled – we’re off to Madrid! My first visit, our first joint visit, and T’s first tourist (versus all business) visit. We’re staying in the boonies for the business part of the trip, but plan on being in the heart of Madrid for the weekend at least. T’s Madrid-based business colleague has recommended the Hotel Suite Prado and Hotel Villa Real. Decisions, decisions – what fun!
This travel buzz reminds me that I have yet to post details of our fabulously fabulous November trip: Prague, England and then central Germany. Oh, my! More on that to follow…
Packrats Rejoice: Directions to Sèvres Porcelain found!
November 6th, 2007
In an earlier post (October 30, 2007), I lamented the broken link to the National Porcelain Museum in Sèvres, on the western edge of Paris. That website had given me opening times, history and also directions. Now I’m pleased to report that my inner packrat has (for once) proved itself of value, as I’ve discovered my hastily scribbled directions, copied from that site. For posterity, here they are: Take Metro line # 9 to the end of the line, Pont de Sèvres. Look for the exit (“Sortie”) #2, marked “Quai Alphonse Le Gallo – Prefecture des Hauts-de-Seine.” Take the pedestrian path as you exit the Metro. Cross the bridge over the Seine using the right hand sidewalk. Follow the pedestrian footbridge to the museum (which is clearly visible, and signposted, as you cross the bridge.) Bonne Chance!
Opening hours at time of writing: 10am to 5pm. Closed for lunch, 12:30pm-2pm.
Stop press: New site found – in English — for the Sevres factory, which sits directly behind the museum.
— Next Page »